Extrusion Width – The magic parameter for strong 3D prints?

Extrusion Width – The magic parameter for strong 3D prints?


Extrusion width determines how wide the line
of material is that your 3D printer extrudes through it’s nozzle and that’s a parameter
that I rarely touched until now. For todays video, I’ve investigated the
interesting influence of this setting on print quality and layer adhesion and oh boy, if
you want to have a strong print fast then this might be interesting for you! Guten Tag everybody, I’m Stefan and welcome
to CNC Kitchen. This video is sponsored by Squarespace. Squarespace is an all-in-one platform that
I recently started using to easily provide write-ups and the results of my research. Create your own website by browsing squarespace.com/cnckitchen. More on Squarespace at the end of this video! Most of us probably change the layer height
we print with quite a bit and adjust it depending on if we want something fast or nice. A parameter that I don’t see many adjust
is the extrusion width the slicer uses. And at this point I’d be really interested
if you ever touched it and why. Let me know in the comments! The extrusion width is how wide the line of
material that is printed is. Please don’t mix that up with the extrusion
multiplier! The extrusion multiplier only adjusts the
flow of material but keeps the distance between tracks the same, extrusion width sets the
distance between extruded lines and adjusts material flow accordingly. Most of us probably use a 0.4mm nozzle on
our machines and the width of the filament line doesn’t necessarily need to be exactly
that value. Going smaller might seem a bit counterintuitive
but is actually possible and can even be beneficial for quality. Most slicers use a standard value of 100 to
120% of the nozzle diameter. This means the material extrusion is as wide
as nozzle orifice or just a bit wider. Since the nozzle tips have a bit of flat area
around the hole the layer height will be kept and the material will not be squeezed upwards. Also, if I later talk about extrusion width,
I will usually use the percent value which means what percentage of my 0.4mm nozzle diameter. Some slicers like Cura hide extrusion width
by default and let you define the wall thickness which doesn’t necessarily need to be a multiple
of the extrusion width. For full control over that value I used PrusaSlicer
2.1 for all prints. With higher extrusion widths the pressure
inside of the nozzle needs to be higher as well to squeeze the material to the sides
after it leaves the nozzle. This additional pressure does not only squeeze
the material to the side, it will also press the individual layers together more which
poses the question if that also helps with the layers bond together better? This is exactly the task of todays video. In order to investigate that question I printed
3DBenchys for quality assessment and layer adhesion samples as well as my test hooks
for strength testing. I thought it would be interesting to even
start from extrusion widths smaller than the nozzle bore up to really high values. I printed all parts with a 0.4mm nozzle and
started at 90% extrusion width and went all the way up to 250%. That’s 0.36mm to 1mm and the latter is the
diameter of the nozzle tip of a standard E3D nozzle. Pay attention if you use different nozzles
for example the MK8s of the CR-10 and all its variants and clones because their nozzle
tip looks different which has advantages and disadvantages. The parts were printed on my Original Prusa
i3 MK2S in SpoolWorks PLA at a nozzle temperature of 210°C, 50% fan and 0.16mm thick layers. In order to have ambient temperatures as constant
as possible I had the printer in my basement where I have a quite consistent temperature
of 20°C. Each printjob for one extrusion width consisted of one 3DBenchy and a pair
of 3 layer adhesion specimens. The 3DBenchy and the test samples were printed
sequentially so that the layer times were consistent and didn’t jump. At first, let’s take a look at the print
quality. It was very interesting to see how all 3DBenchys
looked basically the same up to 140% extrusion width. Even the model with 90% width didn’t look
differently. At 160% I was slowly able to spot artefacts
in the overhanging regions probably because the material is squeezed out that much. At 250% the whole surface was even strangely
textured. At 200% and higher the flag pole base just
vanished not because of printing problems but because the part just had too thin walls
to be printed with a 0.8mm extruded line. At higher extrusion widths some areas looked
as if they were a bit underextruded though I think was only the overlapping areas with
the perimeter that needed tuning. All in all, the printable range is way bigger
than I initially thought and 150% width still seems reasonable. You have to keep in mind that especially thin
areas might suffer faster in quality, because the additional extrusion pressure will create
a downward-force on the part, squishing it together. Also, the additional material will add drag
between the nozzle and the part and therefore might deform it due to the shear forces or
cause other issues. Another thing that you have to keep in mind
is that with thicker extrusions you also pump out more material in the same amount of time
that needs sufficient cooling. In the worst case you might even get to the
limit of your hotend where it’s not able anymore to melt the material properly causing
even more issues. In such a case it might be a good idea to
take a look at hotends like E3Ds Volcano or just bump the temperature up a little. Let’s now continue with the layer adhesion
tests. The samples that I printed were measured and
then mounted in my DIY universal test machine where they were are all loaded at a constant
speed until failure. This should give us very comparable values
because it removes the human factor. Here again, the samples up to 140% extrusion
width looked very similar and only at wider extrusions some problems seem to occur. For statistics I tested 3 samples for each
setting and I didn’t test them in order to avoid any systematic error. The results are very interesting because we
can clearly see that the layer adhesion slowly rises from 90% to the maximum probably at
150%. After that it falls again but the reason for
this behavior might also just be that the samples got really rough and the stress risers
on the surface caused premature failure. Just for a reference, the pure material strength
is at around 60MPa so even though the layers seem to adhere better we are still a bit away
from perfect fusing of the layers but again, a bit closer. As I already mentioned in the last video this
is actually a video series where I analyze the influence on strength of different printing
parameters and then ultimately want to combine them to get the maximum strength out of our
3D printed parts. Design of Experiements if you know what I
mean. If you don’t want to miss that, make sure
that you’re subscribed and have also selected the notification bell! At the lower extrusion widths, the crack planes
are only over one or two layers and they become more un-uniformly the more material is squished
out. Another indication that we’re on the right
track. Next, in order to apply that to a real problem
I also printed a couple of my test hooks to see if our findings on the simple layer adhesion
samples also hold true here. All in all I printed 12 parts, all standing. 3 had 2 perimeters and 100% extrusion width. 3 had the same number of perimeters but at
200% width, doubling the wall thickness. 3 were printed with 4 perimeters and 100%
width resulting in the same wall thickness. 3 were right in-between with 3 perimeters
and 133% extrusion width. Of course, the parts with thicker walls will
be stronger, but is it better to use more perimeters or thicker extrusions. By the way, I did a whole video on why you
should make your parts stronger by adjusting perimeters instead of infill ratio. Card up here! Besides strength I also noted down printing
time and weight. I, for my part work in aerospace and am impatient. That means that for once, I want the most
strength per weight and the strongest print in the shortest amount of time. Some might argue that print time doesn’t
play a role for them so by just using more perimeters and infill they make their parts
stronger. But still if you’re someone like this then
having even stronger parts with wider extrusions might be a bonus on top. The quality of the hooks wasn’t as different
as with the 3DBenchies and the layer adhesion coupons. Even the 200% sample still looked okay. Since I only used 20% infill there always
was a bit of space left the push the surplus of material. So as suspected, the hooks with only two perimeters
failed at first at around 20kg of load. Next were the hooks with 4 perimeters and
100% extrusion width at 33kg but with quite some scatter. Second came the parts with 3 perimeters and
133% extrusion width at 37kg of failure load and the strongest ones were actually the ones
with only 2 perimeters and double the normal extrusion width at 39kg on average. This is almost double the strength with the
same printing time when we compare it to the first sample. The printing time was even lower because the
infill is thicker so less lines need to be extruded. So, if you are as impatient as I am, then
thicker extrusions will give you stronger parts in the same amount of time. If you are looking for parts that use the
given material as efficiently as possible, thicker extrusions will help you in this regard
as well because layer bonding will be better. Pretty cool, huh! So, what’s the verdict? We have once again learnt that the strength
of our 3D prints is not only a result of the materials we use but also the settings. Using wider extrusion seems to help layer
adhesion because the material is squished more into the previous layer. At some point you run into quality problems
but to be honest, that’s usually not the biggest concern with mechanical parts. If you need a strong part quickly then upping
the extrusion width is almost directly proportional to the gain in strength, which is really cool! You might have the same advantage with a bigger
nozzle, but this method saves you the hassle to switch all of the time. Just keep in mind that you will extrude more
amount of material in the same timeframe so make sure your hotend and cooling setup is
able to handle that. The detailed test results are available for
my Patron supporters but if you only want to take a second look at the graphs than make
sure to check out my new website where I’ll be posting write-ups of all of my videos. This is thanks to todays videos sponsor Squarespace. Squarespace is a is THE all-in-one platform
to build a beautifully looking online presence. Not only do they have a ton of professional
templates for you to start with and free stock photos for quick customization their online
editor is so intuitive to use and helps me create and maintain my website with no hassle
at all. If you also have a business or just want to
share your latest hacks and prints or even create a shop in a professional manner than
start your free Squarespace trial today at squarespace.com/cnckitchen and use code CNCKITCHEN
to get 10% off your first purchase. If you’re ever stuck and need assistance,
they have a great help center and 24/7 customer support. Try out Squarespace 2 weeks for free by browsing
squarespace.com/cnckitchen and let them know who send you by using code CNCKITCHEN for
10% off upon checkout. Thank you Squarespace for supporting this
channel! Thank you for watching! I hope you learnt something new today. If you did, then please leave a like and make
sure that you’re subscribed for future investigations. If you want to support my videos and research
than consider becoming a Patron or help me out in other ways. Also check the rest of my video library, because
I’m just about to reach 100 videos and there is a ton more for you to watch and enjoy. I hope to see you in the next one, auf wiedersehen
and goodbye!

100 thoughts on “Extrusion Width – The magic parameter for strong 3D prints?

  1. A problem with blanket modification of extrusion width is that dimensional accuracy suffers. However you can take a more nuanced approach and increase extrusion width for internal perimeters and infill, while leaving it at 100% for the external perimeter. I've had good results with this approach.

  2. I frequently use a 0.3mm extrusion width for external perimeters and top solid infill in order to create higher detail on the top surface when printing with a 0.4mm nozzle. I use this for embossing text or logos on top of models.

  3. A arrived at at an extrusion width of 120% this way: I had over-extrusion; stringing, and bumpy walls. Testing showed walls became smooth at a multiplier .87. But now there were gaps on the top and bottom infill. Adjusting the extrusion width to 120% made the tops of my parts perfectly smooth. My settings are very far from normal, but my parts a practically flawless, and strong with this material

  4. I have been printing a lot of parts that are single wall without infill from one of 3D LabPrint's RC planes and this video helped me solve a huge problem that I have been having where the wall lines don't stick together. I didn't realize before that increasing the line thickness above the nozzle diameter was possible but I just tried it and it's turning out great now! Thank you!

  5. And I had just started lowering my line width trying to eliminate gaps between perimeters. Guess I'll go back to 0.48 or maybe 0.5.

  6. I've used wide extrusion width for making vase mode more successful on steeper angles in parts. I've used up to 0.8 on a 0.4 nozzle with decent results.

  7. I would find it interesting to test various dips, solvent bathes and injection. For ABS I suspect you could dissolve some ABS in a solvent until it gains some viscosity, then drop your part in, vacuum the air out, and quickly take your part out. It might require a quick swish in just the solvent to clean the outside off.
    Another thing that would be interesting is if there were a fill pattern that changed with the distance from the wall. You could have the density high close to the wall, and low in the middle of the parts. Likely achieving the same strength as a higher fill density, but with faster print times and lower material usage.

    I have also thought that the nozzle tip diameter (not the oriface) has an effect on strength. That it might preheat the previous layer slightly, and definitely an adjacent line on the current layer, by rubbing across it. So perhaps a larger diameter would improve the pre melting. Even better would be a laser that tracks in front of the current line, preheating just the small area the width of the printing line to nearly its melting point. Obviously this would be a significant design challange.

  8. I assumed this was one of those values you needed to calibrate?

    What I did was print a cube in vase/spiral mode with no bottom layer, measured the wall thickness on all sides and put in the average for extrusion width.

    Funny enough, my prints were more or less perfect after doing this and printing a few calibration objects.

  9. Owning a lulzbot mini with a 0.5mm nozzle I found a majority of models are designed for 0.4mm so quite often I have had to set the width to 80% and it has always worked well.

  10. Been using various extrusion widths the whole time I have been printing. Good to see there has been some basis for it.
    I have used it to improve interlayer bonding and I found top layers can turn out really well also as you can get an iron type effect and the nozzle drags and molten filament.
    oh and slow, I have printed slower to make sure the heat transfers.

  11. Yep, this parameter is definitely one of the top 3 parameters I adjust in slicers. Why? Engineer. Sometimes it's because of wall feature width, and how I want the slicer to path through the section. But it's also important to maintain the aspect ratio of your extrusion path. I don't have it readily available, but some research has been done, and you don't want the aspect ratio of your extrusion line to fall below 2:1 if you care about layer bonding. Also, the internal stresses and cooling properties depend on the aspect ratio.
    And you can maximize volumetric flowrate this way also. Basically, it's a super important setting 🙂

  12. I modify it for almost all prints. I go wider for speed and strength, thinner for surface detail. I tend to do wide inside walls and thin external ones and top / bottoms. I also try to tweak it until the model walls are evenly divisible.

  13. I've done a decent bit of printing at 0.6mm line width, mainly to speed up protoyping. Dyze Design has a decent blog post on this subject.

  14. Great video and methodology. Next question: effect of thickness/width aspect ratio on strength or combined DOE on the variables thickness and width.. I suspect that it could be possible to reach high strength value with thick layers by increasing extrusion width to 150 to 200%… (Or switching nozzle size).

  15. As an analytical chemist I appreciate your error bars, but you have to be careful and even just do a students t-test as I suspect there is no difference in the perimeter experiment. Been watching lots of your videos, very good stuff. And great video quality! Thanks

  16. I do this on basically every print I print. It was nice to know that layer adhesion increased that much and that two lines was best using the same overall wall thickness.
    Using Cura, I set the outer wall line width close to 0.4mm to maintain horizontal resolution. I then increase Inner wall line width, infill line width and top/bottom line width up to 0.8mm. I have not seen the rough surfaces that you got here, perhaps that's a result of not printing hot enough. Increasing infill line width allows you to print it with higher speed without the lines being cut off when it crosses an already printed infill line.
    Lastly, I reduce top surface line with to 0.3 or 0.35 to get a smoother top surface layer. This is a good alternative to Ironing which takes a lot more time, although this doesn't get as smooth. I do this even when I use ironing to give the ironing a smoother base to work on.
    Another thing that I have been meaning to test is if wider line width also allows higher layer height and how that compares to using a larger nozzle.

  17. Some great info here Stephan..Thx The only thing I'd like to mention is that thinner extrusions also have more surface area per volume. This means the thinner extrusion are cooled more effectively by the fan whch makes the bonds a lot weaker. I would have liked to have seen the test done with no fan. Thx again… Thumbs up!

  18. Stefan, I set my profiles to 150% for perimeter width / infill width, and use 125% for external perimeters and top infill. There are a few cases when I do 200%: for most of my ABS prints and all of my PC prints. I've had such success with this that I don't even use ABS anymore, I just use PC when I need a higher temp or higher strength material. In those cases I also use a lower layer height.

    I set up a CR10 s5 with a volcano nozzle per your old CR10 TitanAero/Volcano video, on that I run a 0.8 nozzle, 0.4 layers with 1.2 extrusion width and it is incredible. Sometimes I turn the layer height and width down a bit for better looking or non-structural parts, but the 1.2mm wall thickness (per perimeter) makes for strong, fast parts. (I only print PLA on the CR10).

  19. Ive cranked up the extrusion width on a lot of big mechanical parts, just to throw down more plastic faster (didn't realize it was stronger). Ive also cranked down the extrusion width for the infill occasionally (which is a simplified 3d option), since that will increase the number of infill "boxes", which is useful when i need more internal infill support for the top layers, but dont want to increase the overall weight

  20. I was not really aware that people did not modify extrusion width often for anything other than vases (that's super common).
    I though it was somewhat common to play around with the width for best fit on some prints.

    I probably use 100% extrusion width of the nozzle only in a few cases.
    Usually I am pushing it up to say 0.6mm or 0.8mm for a 0.4mm e3d nozzle. Sometimes smaller down to 0.3mm.
    It all depends on what I am printing. If I need that strength that thicker more bonded lines gives and the part design will handle it, I will push the width as close to 0.8mm as possible for the design. While keeping quality the same as a lower width would provide.
    For designs with very complex walls, shifting sizes of walls etc. I will modify the thickness to best fit the print to reduce any gap fill and avoid gaps in general as it improves the quality of the print and best keeps tolerances.

    I find the best performance improvements to be in compression loads to fight against de-lamination and also in radial loads.

    On a separate note I think you will find the numbers even better for less brittle materials like PETG. The strength of the bonds basically skyrockets as you start to increase width, even past the point of looking good. For PETG if I can print it with thicker lines I will, no question. It's faster if I am keeping speeds the same, stronger, and looks just as good. Whats not to love when you are dealing with a material that likes to be printed slow-ish and cools slowly too. That means I can print a bit slower without making the overall print take longer, get far stronger prints that usually act as if they were solid material and not layers. It actually makes printing with PETG easier too. So wins all round.

  21. I've messed around with really low extrusion widths for the top layer, like as low as 50%, in order to get a kind of ironing effect and an improved surface finish with my larger nozzle prints. (.8mm)

    Mixed success dependent on the filament, but a very good surface improvement on some.

  22. I use .35 on parameters and .45 for infill and solid layer with .3 nozzle
    To my eyes it looks better and in theory it should be faster?

  23. I print everything with 3 perimeters. Early on in 3d printing I noticed I could see through some materials, and as I mostly print models without painting them, I wanted to make sure I couldn't see through them.

  24. So now the question is, 0,4mm nozzle with 200% extrusion width or 0,8mm nozzle with 100%? You strength graph showed that 200% has the same or lower layer adhesion strength as 100%

  25. In spiralize mode it makes an huge difference in strenth, a .6 nozzle gives rather strong objects at .8 linewith, and when i print ABS with a draft shield, a wider line prevents the shield from turning into spaghetti for higher prints, but in general i print at the nozzle hole diameter.

  26. Looking at the footage of loading of the hooks I think you can reduce the data scatter if you center the load every time (with some sort of added part). It appears the load placement can change a bit from sample to sample which is going to change the bending moment in the part. Nice work by the way.

  27. I assume that this would not work well for PETG as it isn't normally "squished" by the nozzle at all. I am guessing that trying to "Squish" PETG would result in it just sticking around the nozzle and making a horrible mess, but maybe someone can confirm or deny this.

  28. The plastic has to come from somewhere. One relates to the other. Layer height is what I change more, but the height will effect the width if you don’t increase the multiplier. Of course you know all this … the trick is … don’t go nuts with your changes. Thanks for the video.

  29. I wonder if it'd be possible to have 1 extrusion width for the internal perimeters and infill and another for the outer perimeter

  30. Changing the extrusion width was useful to vary the stiffness of parts printed with flexible filaments. I found that perimeters of 1 or 2 layers can be very strong when extrusion width is around 0.6mm (w/ 0.4mm nozzle)

  31. Good job! I'm already a subscriber but just clicked the notification Bell because I don't want to miss out on future videos like this.

  32. Great video! Exactly the opposite of what I have been doing, I had been using smaller extrusion width settings to get better top infill on small detailed top facing parts.
    That is probably a good trick for those cases, but in all others I will go with larger extrusion widths as you have shown

  33. I've used 200% extrusion width with great success to print small containers/boxes in vase mode. The prints come out much stronger than with default extrusion width, and they are fast to print and look really nice in vase mode (Cura: Spiralize outer contour).

  34. Thanks for the heads-up! I never touched extrusion widthexcept for dialling in exact dimensions on the finished part, which has been superseded by XY compensation built-in to the slicer.

  35. Feedback: My Ender 3 always produces undersized inside diameters. Tried 90% and 80%, but the only thing that resulted was out of round holes.

  36. Great video Stefan! Wondering if an increase in Cura Extrusion Multiplier could also help strength by forcing material overlap between lines… Keep up the great work!

  37. When adjusting the extrusion with, do you also adjusted the multiplier of the material flow, or does the slicer do this by itself?

  38. I want to share one an issue I had when using large line width setting that can cause those funky surface patterns you noticed. Also i want to share a different slicer tweak I use to eliminate those bad surface patterns. I do a lot of printing with larger nozzles up to 2.0mm and I use CURA which does not easily give me the ability to change the nozzle size so I started using line width setting a lot but then noticed those strange surface patterns. What follows is not scientific but based on my observations, it WILL give you better surface quality prints, but my guess as to WHY you get better prints may be incorrect. The undesirable surface patterns are most pronounced when the surface is curved. I think this is due to the slicer not wanting to generate paths that are shorter than the line width, so you end up with a longer paths that create patterns on the surface (think low poly paths). To correct this I needed to leave line width small so I get smooth paths while still extruding enough plastic to get the large line width. I am able to accomplish this "over extrusion" by telling the slicer my filament diameter is smaller than it actually is so it will over extrude OR you could do the same by setting the flow higher. This makes a huge difference in the surface quality and still allows you to print wide lines.

  39. i have it cranked up to 120 and slowed to 60% for the first layer, makes bed adhesion almost impossible to remove part from blue tape alone.

  40. I have frequently reduced extrusion width to get a model to print walls less than .4mm . Sometimes increasing flow to ensure quality. (And allowing the wider wall)
    Always with Simplify 3d.

  41. Printing PC-PBT filament learned me that wide extrusion is absolutely necessary (0.7mm from 0.4mm nozzle was minimum, 0.9 was best)

  42. I wonder what happens to those thick line widths if you increase or decrease the flow by 1-2%. Say how would a 0.8mm width with 102% flow perform against a 100% flow and 98% flow. It all depends on the filament, nozzle and calibration in the end.

    The thick lines are very far apart and line bonding from the sides from line to line should also play a role in strength.

  43. I experimented with extrusion width for several weeks, because I had problems with overhangs curling upwards.

    In the end is was a problem created by several factors and not just one – but the width of extrusion had to do with it and by changing it to a certain percentage of the layer height I was able to increase print quality significantly.

    My hotend always bumped into the upwards curling layers on little structures like the leapfrogs front arms…

    Could not print that darn frog without layershift for that reason for almost a month.

    Was tweeking it like crazy.

    Cooling, extrusion width and a slightly dented nozzle which was set up a tiny Bit off of a 90 degree angle and it's tip scratched the surface of the extruded plastic like scissors do on Christmas wrapping when you want it to curl!

    Took me forever to figure out.

  44. I use a 0.8mm nozzle and print at 1.0mm layer width. In vase mode the prints are surprisingly tough, far tougher than I originally expected. To allow enough time for heating, I keep my speeds down to around 40 or 50 mm/s, this also helps to increase layer adhesion.

  45. I have to say that up until now I have found all of your videos easy to understand, but this extrusion width parameter is pretty much over my head.

    I have a project, where I am printing very small parts from PLA with a 0.25mm nozzle. In Prusaslicer the default extrusion width was 0.25mm if I remember correctly. I have adjusted it to 0.3mm because I thought that will speed up printing time, without having any negative consequences. But I have some fitting issues, as certain areas (knobs that have to fit into gaps on other parts) are just ever so slightly thicker/larger, that they make the assembly/ disassembly require too much force. I combat this issue with redesigning my parts with bigger gaps there.

    Would changing the extrusion width back to the original 0.25mm solve this issue? Would part strength be affected? I was under the impression that whatever values I give in the slicer, the software will adjust things so that it will maintain the exact dimensions of the imported object. Was I wrong with my assumption?

  46. It would be interesting to see a video of infill overlap percentage, I would expect this to increase the strength in tension in plane and have little to no effect on layer adhesion…but would wonder how much

  47. If anyone is familiar with the Prusa Slicer (v 2.0.0), is this just achieved by increasing the "Nozzle Diameter" under the "Printer Settings" tab? Would be logical that the Slicer would automatically compensate by adjusting the filament feedrate, but would appreciate feedback if anyone has experience with this.

    Also, using a Prusa Mk3, does the nozzle actually have to be changed, or can these benefits be achieved simply by changing the Slicer settings?

  48. I change line width to make small features more precise. I use 0.3mm Mk8 nozzles, carefully drilled out to 0.35mm (difficult to find 0.35mm). I can vary the line width (in Cura) between 0.25mm and 0.45mm. I never thought that line width could effect strength, thanks for enlightening me.

  49. Having been 3d printing for 9 years now. I have noticed how the nozzle basically irons the bead it lays.
    Soooo; instead of having a tiny flat area at the tip and the rest taped off. Have a large polished wide base to the nozzle. Basically made with no taper at all.

    This may have 2 effects.
    1. The new line and the surrounding area are all heated, and for a much longer time. So it is not just the heat in the printed line boding the material. This may make it bond better.
    2. Those annoying ridges you get on the final layer will be ironed out, quite literally. So the final top layers may be much smoother.

    Or it will all go horribly wrong and stick up everything. Am still wanting to try this but have no time to do it. Though i have all the kit to make the nozzle and everything.

  50. I have changed my extrusion width to 0.5mm when using a 0.4mm nozzle a few times to speed up printing of thin walls. 

    A lot of designs are made with solid wall thicknesses of 1-2mm which is an obvious consequence of designing in terms of 1mm units to keep the design math simple. However if you print a solid wall of 1mm thickness with a 0.4mm nozzle you will get a straight outer wall on each side and a 0.2mm gap in the middle which gets printed with the fill pattern. This slows down the overall print a lot. If you adjust the extrusion width to 0.5mm then you get a straight line on both sides with no infill required. 

    However I have also found that doing this reduces layer adhesion and makes such walls more fragile. But depending on your end use goals the tradeoff in strength may be worth the significant reduction in print time.

  51. Awesome work as always!
    I already tend to bump up extrusion width when I want better layer adhesion and +30 to +50% seemed like the sweet spot by intuition. Now there's data to back it up 🙂
    Could you make one on how simple overextrusion could change layer adhesion? I tend to overextrude by about 5-8% with structural prints that don't need super precise dimensions. Especially with PETG it would be very interesting since it has good layer adhesion to start with!

  52. Yep. I've played with it. On some items that had finer details, I found the defaults in Prusa Slicer would cause some of the details (such as writing) to disappear or get muddied. I've reduced the width to a straight 0.4mm on the bottom layers where the text was and I some additional detail would be preserved.

  53. Second comment – my son accidentally explored this idea in a different way. He took a vase file I had sliced for a 0.8mm nozzle and printed it on his printer with a 0.4mm nozzle. It printed fine with minimal loss of visual quality. The vase, of course, was quite strong and the thicker extrusion made it capable of holding water.

  54. Please more infografik (animated, if you have possibility) and textual information. There are many watchers that dont understand English well when somebody talks. The matters of your videos are very interesting for amateurs and professionals.
    Fiele Danke aus dem UdSSR. Auf wiedersehen!

  55. For maybe a year now I have always extruded my infill at 1.5x the nozzle diameter. (I use gyroid mostly). It seems to make very good quality infill, and it takes less time at the same percentage infill%/speed settings because it draws fewer lines of infill. I changed the infill width originally because I was having problems getting a good quality infill at very low% (like, 8-12%)

  56. Great video! I wonder if you could get good quality and fast&strong prints if you print the outer layers with normal settings and the inner with a larger width.

  57. I would be interested to see the results for a 150% 3 perimeter hook. I don't know how well my printer would cope with a 200% extrusion rate and a 150%/3 perimeter might be a good in-between setup.

  58. Good job Stefan, but consider doing statistical measure on the results because it looks like some data groups are not actually different, despite the mean values.

  59. I have always adjusted extrusion width (usually *down*) to keep Cura from doing those ridiculous tiny infills for the final, central perimeter. So for example in CAD I would make a wall 1.2mm thick and tell Cura to do 3, 0.4mm wide perimeters on a 0.4mm nozzle. What Cura would actually do is two perimeters and then do zigzag infill for the remaining gap. I assume this is due to some sort of rounding errors because if I just make the extrusion width 0.399mm the issue goes away and I get a clean line for that final perimeter.

    Since then I've switched to PrusaSlicer 2 and so far don't notice the same issue with that slicer.

  60. I don't agree with your last statement about a bigger nozzle: you'll have way less pressure with a 0.8 nozzle and 0.8 line, making life easier on your extruder

  61. Another great video Stefan.

    I normally use 150% of extrusion width for infill, both for increased speed and layer adhesion. I keep perimeters between 100% and 120% for surface quality. Also use only 100% for the top-most layer for the same reason.

    I also use a larger extrusion width for when I want to go with layer height bigger than nozzle diameter. Normally no less than layer height + nozzle diameter and no further than layer height + flat area of the nozzle.

    Keep up the good work.

  62. I have always been doing this, but sometimes it gives variation in sizes, but parts are werry strong, just mad a clip yesterday, a standard C shape 20mm wide and 2.5 mm thick walls and with a pull out on the C shap i got 30 kg before failing on a old ABS. So one clip can hold the mirror I made it for like 10 times. And infil was in same direction as the wall, so each layer was almost one long extrusion… 😁

  63. Definitely going to try this out. Would have liked a comparison with a different nozzle diameter but the same printh with.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *